Tuesday, August 19, 2014

PNG Projects

My primary reason for coming to PNG (as I said in an earlier blog), was to help run an international media conference being hosted by UOG. I was then going to stay on and help make a feature film, but as also explained in an earlier blog, that never eventuated).

Instead, I've been drafted in to assist on a number of different projects in areas I would never have dreamed I'd ever be involved in.  I can safely say, the diversity of work I've been doing here would NEVER happen in Australia. 

My first day in PNG, I helped the head of the midwifery department (an Australian expat), shoot a short educational video on the examination of placenta after birth. I was coaching one of her students in presenting techniques - she was a little overwhelmed at first but did a great job! They thought my acting exercises were hilarious - I suppose no one's ever asked them to jump up and down on the spot to shake out nerves and centre their energy or blow raspberries to relax their lips before! The only thing I found a little 'un-fun' was the fact we used real placentas for the demonstration - obtained from the hospital the night before. It. Was. Disgusting. Sorry, mothers. I'm not good with insides.

I've also been working on the Pawa Meri project, which I've been working on since earlier in the year - we're trying to bump up the Pacific reach and capitalise on the popularity of the films in PNG. It's such an empowering project to be part of.

The third project I was drafted in to assist with was an evaluation of HIV/AIDS material produced by the Catholic Church. Funnily enough, they're one of the biggest supporters of awareness and treatment in all of PNG. They still won't advocate the use of condoms however, which burns my skull. It's such a simple thing, which will preserve life. In a country where HIV and AIDS are rampant and the number of children who are left orphans due to one parent infecting another, you'd think they'd be ok with it, but no. They're not. Infuriating.

And the final project I've been working on for the last few days is one in collaboration with UOG and IMR and is part of a Masters thesis for one of our students. She's (or more accurately, we're) in Tari looking at the effects of LNG (a mining company) on the local community, focussing on sex workers and the increase in HIV and AIDS, using Photo Voice as a tool. It's fascinating - we've been working with field officers from Tingim Laip (Think of LIfe), which is an advocacy and awareness group in PNG and their stories are incredible. 

The acceptance of many people of religion also fascinates me - one young guy was telling me yesterday that he used to be a 'street rascal', pick pocketing and stealing; but then he went and listened to a pastor preach for two hours, felt a change, decided to get baptised and now works on behalf of the church (Tingim Laip is a Uniting Church group) to improve the lives of those less fortunate. He also stopped smoking and chewing betelnut/buai (don't even ask - it's a disgusting habit the majority of people have up here. The red shit they spit into the streets is revolting). That calm acceptance that the bible is right, astounds me.

I had such an interesting chat with the woman who's heading up this project earlier tonight - the work she's done to help children affected by HIV and AIDS (not just those who are infected by it, but those who quite often lose both parents from it as one infects the other) has has been amazing. It's infuriating to know that if the Catholic Church would only allow their congregation to use condoms, the numbers of both parents dying would decrease rapidly and children wouldn't be orphaned and shunned by their extended families (which is quite common). The number of kids who end up on the streets through absolutely no fault of their own is shameful.

Polygamy is also a big thing here - it's not uncommon for a man to have more than one wife. Quite often it's one of the new wives who brings the disease into the marriage - not only putting her husband at risk, but also his other wives. Aggie was telling me a story about a man in one of the villages she worked in who had three wives - he had two sons with the first wife and four children with the second. The third wife was infected with HIV when he married her, which she passed on to him and he then passed it on to his second wife (the first wife stayed clear). The man and his second and third wives died, leaving the four kids orphaned. The brothers from the first marriage (in their early 20s) tried to kick their younger half-siblings out of the house and onto the street, but the oldest of the four (a 16 year old girl) fought back, got the younger kids into a routine of chores, growing food to sell at market and school, quit school herself and took her older half-brothers to court. It took her a year, but she won the court case and was allowed to stay in the house and take care of her younger siblings - she also was able to go back to school and finish her education. Her determination is amazing, but imagine all those kids who don't have someone like that to go into bat for them. Heartbreaking. 

This project finishes tomorrow and we're heading back to Goroka, where I only have about 10 days left before I fly back to Melbourne. Even though I'm really looking forward to my creature comforts (hot baths, fast internet, CHOCOLATE), I'll be really sad to leave here. I actually feel, for the first time in a very long time, that the work I've done has contributed to something important and worthwhile. I guess I just need to find a job that gives me that same sense of purpose when I get back.

Something to think about really.

Saturday, August 16, 2014

It's The Little Things... aka PNG Tales

It’s the little things you don’t notice at first, but creep up on your brain at odd moments…

Like realising that the electricity has run out, meaning you have to top it up via the meter on the outside of the house, using credits on your mobile phone. 

Or not being able to use the washing machine, because it’s a twin tub and requires pulling tubes out of one spot to put into another depending on which cycle is on and it’s all just too bloody difficult and thank god you have a local woman who comes in twice a week and does it all for you.

It’s when you look at your legs, thinking “I need a leg wax” but realising that not only are there no beauty salons in the town, but the local pharmacies (there’s only 3 of them) don’t even sell DIY kits.

That then leads you to ponder the fact that only one pharmacy sells tampons and only one brand and one size.

You need a haircut, but there’s no hairdresser either. Not. A. One.

You go shopping for house-related items to furnish the flat of the intern who’s arriving from Germany next week and realise that not a single one of the six stores you’ve been into sell practical things like shower caddies or dish drainers. Ikea would make a killing with the expats up here.

Someone suggests you try the “Chinese Shop”, which is PNG-speak for a five & dime, or dollar store, to try and locate the afore-mentioned items, but they’re closed because it’s Saturday and they’re Seventh Day Adventists.

You’ve learned to drink your coffee black because the only soy milk available is So Good, which is full of sugar and just tastes disgusting. This fact that astonishes most of the locals who drink their coffee with liberal amounts of both milk (or Sunshine milk powder) and sugar. The average Papuan will put no less than 4 heaped teaspoons of sugar into their coffee. 

The blood sugar levels of most people here are astonishingly high.

Kids up here are extraordinarily self-sufficient and resilient. The neighbour’s three year old daughter walks down the road to school each morning with her older brothers, then walks home again on her own and it’s perfectly safe for her to do so.

“Buses” are actually just Toyota Taragos with extra seats crammed in. Many have their taillights held together with gaffa tape and one or two have completely cracked windscreens. The drivers weave all over the road like psychos.

To get a driver's licence you technically need to take a practical test (no theory needed), but if you pay the local officials enough cash they'll give you one, no questions asked.

There are no traffic lights. Anywhere. The few roads that are surfaced are full of potholes and there are no lines marked. There are no stop signs, no give way signs and no speed limit signs, because there are no speed limits. You go as fast or slow as your car will allow you.

There are no streetlights. 

Most people drive 4WDs or faux-4WDs (like Toyota Ravs). Your neighbour drives a Toyota Starlet and you wonder how the axel isn’t smashed to pieces.

The local (outdoor) market is sectioned by produce. Everyone sits on a mat in their 'aisle' with their vegetables or fruit in front of them with little hand-written signs on old pieces of cardboard, indicating the price. There’s a potato aisle, a kao kao aisle, a banana aisle, an avocado aisle, and so on and so on. There’s also, hilariously, a live chicken aisle and a pig aisle. The idea is that you take them home and kill them yourself. Which you know, is a skill most village kids are taught pretty early on.

There are two petrol stations in town and there are no clear entrances or exits, so you have cars lining up top to tail to be served. There’s no self-service – they have attendants who do it for you – if you can get their attention before the car next to you does. 

Not only does the electricity go off at least twice a day, but the water gets shut off at random intervals too, meaning it's wise to keep at least a few large buckets of water around the house.

Every window in the house is louvered, meaning they don't close properly, which is great when it's warm and there's a breeze, but a bit difficult when it gets cold and rains. Thankfully that's not too often.

You're due to leave in two weeks but you're really not ready yet.


Friday, August 15, 2014

Goroka Tales

The internet in PNG is a tricky thing. Technically there's wifi at my workplace, but it only works intermittently and it thinks pretty much every website apart from Facebook is 'porn', so I've mostly been relying on the data plan from my phone and temperamental hotspot. 

The weather plays a huge factor in the reliance of internet, according to locals. If it's cloudy? The internet will be crap. This is usually shrugged off with an "eh, what can you do?" gesture.

My primary purpose for coming up here was to help my old Sydney flatmate run a week-long conference at the university. It went really well, despite the challenges of working with a team who’ve never done anything on this scale before and work on “PNG" time.  By that I mean, none of them turned up on the fourth morning until after 8.30am… registration started at 8am, they were all rostered to start at 7am and none of them had their phones switched on.  The only two people who this appeared to stress were my awesome assistant coordinator and I. Everyone else just shrugged it off as “oh well, PNG time”. Nothing really stressed them.

The third day of the conference involved field trips – I didn’t go on any of them (too busy catching up on work!) but they sounded awesome. One group climbed Mt Gahavisuka and went to a place called ATprojects, who train people in remote villages in business and life skills. The other group went to Banana Block, which is a settlement where the Kafe Women’s Association are based – they work to prevent violence against women, especially in sorcery cases, which is a big issue here in the highlands.  Then they went to Goroka Agribusiness Training Institute, which is run by the First Secretary of the district. Most of his students are illiterate, so uses a lot of media in his training.  The third group went on a community filmmaking trip to two of the villages nearby.

Afterwards, we all met met up at Raun Raun Theatre, which is about five minutes from here and is home to the National Performing Arts Troupe – they had some demonstrations and then did some performances for us. A lot of it was in Tok Pisin, so I couldn’t understand it (although I have been picking up a few phrases here and there, so I can get by in the market or shops without feeling like an ignorant outsider!), but their performances were really strong so the message was clear. They were performing a history of PNG independence and I’m not sure how it fit into the story of independence, but a guy came out on stage with three live snakes hanging off him – he put them down on the stage for a bit while he did a tribal dance, then when he picked them up again, he put one’s head in his mouth. Like, right down his throat.  There were lots of locals sitting in the audience as well – they all freaked, as did I!

Once the conference ended, I was supposed to start working as drama coach on a feature film being shot up here, but due to a combination of factors (the director being completely disorganised and not even having a finished script or shooting schedule, let alone there being enough money in the budget to pay me being the main issues), I was seconded onto a couple of other projects, which are really quite awesome.

The first project is a continuation of one that I was working on earlier in the year – Pawa Meri (www.pawameri.org). Six female filmmakers were given training and mentorship as they made half hour docos about six influential PNG women. Inspiring stuff and it’s really kicking off here in Papua New Guinea, so now we want to expand the reach into the Pacific and beyond. 

The second project is with one of the filmmakers from Pawa Meri who is conducting visual storytelling workshops in Tari (Southern Highlands) with sex workers and their clients. Apparently Tari is a big mining town, so has a pretty big sex trade, but they don’t necessarily work for money – they get paid in betelnut (which people here chew like tobacco, gives them a bit of a pot-like high and makes their mouths go red – gross), cigarettes and food.  

Tari is one of the few towns left in PNG where people still wear traditional clothing instead of western clothing, so it will certainly be an interesting part of the country to see. We’re flying in via Mt Hagen and have to stay in Hagen overnight because they only fly once a day, but the Mt Hagen show is on while we're there, so we’ll get to check that out which will be amazing. 

On that note, I'll post this and get cracking on the next installment from PNG.

Thursday, August 14, 2014

Shopping, PNG style

Goroka itself is pretty much as I expected - quite beautiful but quite poverty stricken in the non-university areas. Lots of settlements and people just standing around on the streets not doing anything, or selling food or cigarettes at streetside stalls. Everyone stares, but the people are so friendly though - they wave and says hello even though they have no clue who I am. On my first day I went to one of the settlements and loads of small children were pointing and shouting "White Meri!! White Meri!!" at me. White Meri means White Woman - they don't see many white people in the settlements.

Fresh food here is SO cheap. We go to the street markets for fruit and veg most days - you can get a huge bag full for around 20 Kina, which is about A$6. The avocados are about the size of my foot and sooo tasty and cost about K1 (A$0.40) each. An enormous cabbage will set you back about K2 (A$0.80); kao kao (a white sweet potato) for 50 toia (A$0.20) per pile and a hand of bananas for K1. I'll be quite happy to never see another piece of kao kao for some time once I leave here... I've totally overdosed.

Grocery items are where they slug you though. A box of Nutri-Grain will set you back 36 kina (A$10). Chocolate is also really expensive and limited to Cadbury’s, plus it's all locked away in a special section of the supermarket near the doors (bit like the cigarette counter in Australia) and the area is surrounded by guards. Go figure.

Cheese is a rarity (and expensive - K19 or A$8 for a 250gm block of Mainland), the meat is dodgy as all get-out and your choice of chicken is either a frozen one, or you go to the outdoor market, pick a chicken and take it home to kill it.  Luckily our house meri is more than happy to kill and pluck the occasional chicken for us when we want one. 

Tonic water is also a rarity, but we discovered some at the local restaurant where we go swimming on Sunday mornings (yes, a restaurant with a pool in the centre!), so we buy as many as we can carry and usually have G&Ts on a Sunday afternoon.

Items readily available in the supermarket? Drum kits and guitars. Seriously. They’re right at the checkout, so you can pick one up like you would a bar of chocolate at Woolies. Sachets of pre-mixed Nescafe, sugar and milk (although why you’d drink that rubbish when you have amazing fresh ground coffee on your doorstep is beyond me). Twisties. I never knew there were so many bloody varieties of Twisties. Two-minute noodles. Again. WTF?!? 

Six packs of the local beer are "packaged" into plastic bags - just tied up into regular red plastic supermarket bags. No fancy packaging here! The only wines available are Jacob's Creek and Penfolds (and it's about A$25 per bottle!). Ugh. But when you're in need of a glass of wine, you learn not to be too picky.

I’ve learned to drink my coffee black – it’s such good coffee that it’s not so bad really. Rice and almond milk are non-existent up here and the only soy milk available is So Good, which is DISGUSTING, so I am now a long-black aficionado.

There are huge second-hand clothing stores (well, warehouses), which are full of all the charity shop rejects from Australia and is where everybody buys their clothes. I spent K9.50 (A$4.15) and got a skirt, three tops and a jumpsuit - all designer and in great condition. Insane. You have to sift through some crap, but it's worth it. I have a strong suspicion that I'll be coming home with a suitcase full of new/old clothes! 

Not shoes though. The secondhand shoes are festy. 

And on that beautiful thought, I'll leave you.


Guess Where I Am?

Hmmmm. My last post was in February. That's certainly a while. I could make all manner of excuses, but it's nothing I've not used as an excuse before.

Now those of you who are real-world mates will already know where I am. For those who aren't:



This is Goroka, Papua New Guinea, where I've been living for the last 5 weeks. I'm here for another 2 weeks, so technically I'm not 'living' here, but I'm certainly not on vacation - I'm working, plus I'm staying with one of my old flatmates from Sydney, so I'm going to go ahead and say I'm living here.

It's like nothing I've ever really experienced before - even when I spent 3 months in Africa I was always on the go from place to place (and not working) so I never got to experience the day-to-day of living in a developing country.

This place is one massive juxtaposition, but I'm loving it. I won't get into specifics here - instead I'm going to try and do some separate posts about it. To you know, make up for the fact I've been completely slack on the blog front this year.

Let's see how it goes.